Sunday, June 17, 2007

Giddy up in Guatemala

So since San Juan (the highlight being the market for food), where I scored some nice waves just up the road at Madera, we made our way up to Guatemala. Now I´m not one to be too fussed on some of the most average places, but Managua, the Nicaraguan capital, takes the cake. Without doubt the least safe we have felt in our 5 months so far. Let me see. in a few words; bribes, poverty, dodgy characters. Lets just say we caught a very dodge taxi, got out, got in a good taxi, straight to the bus terminal to book a lovely 2.30am ticket for the next morning after handing over a bribe just because he told us what time they opened in the morning. Headed for the closest hotel, price not being an option, slept for all of 5 hrs to walk to the station for 1.30am, then proceeded on the bus for 16hrs to Guatemala city. See, its not always what its cracked up to be, but still, we aint complaining!

On arrival to Guatemala City we were extermely impressed by how well developed it is in contrast to poor neighbouring El Salvador and Nicaragua. This was only reinforced on arrival to nice, altough tourist Antigua. But who gives a damn when you get to climb an active, smoking, bubbling volcano, Volcano Pacuya. We were quick to book a ride there just out of Antigua and on arrival to the top, about a 1 hr walk, we were just blown away by how incredible the site was. We actually walked up the set lava from a previous eruption and stood as close to actual flowing lava as you could without getting incinerated! Gotta love this place, can you imagine doing that in Aus if there were such a thing? Dont think so.

Antigua itself was a welcome relief from poorer Nicaragua and the bus ride, loads of great food and cool markets amonst cobbled streets. And although touristy, it definitely maintains its charm, and is quite a site as it is towered over by some 3 very large, one active, volcanoes. I also had myself an incredible mtb ride on the outskirts in thick jungle, epic stuff.

3 days later we headed to one of the most beautiful places yet, Semuc Champey. On arrival after 8 hrs bussing we were unfortunate not to be able to find a room at the place we wanted, but booked for the next 2 nights at the top notch El Retiro, a series of palm thatched neat little huts in the green mountains overlooking a pretty river. This was definitely one of the best lodges yet, all super friendly, cool people and a restaurant with food to die for. Especially the roast tomato and white bean soup, of which we even scored the recipe for.

So the day after arriving we headed out on a day tour of Semuc. Started with a nifty little caving experince, all submergeed in water, some of it even had to be swum complete with shoes and a candle in one hand. Very cool little exploration, going about 300m in to reach a cascade which flowed into the cave. Following this we cruised down the river on tubes, walked back up and mustered up the courage to jump off a 10m bridge into the river below, then proceeded to the magical pools of Semuc Champey itself. These pools are like nothing I have seen before, a series of turquoise and limestone crystal clear pools derrived from a powerful rapid which passes under an overhang upstream. So picturesque and peaceful to swim in, really did feel like another little world. Definitely a highlight of the last 5 months. We also visited the bat cave in Lanquin nearby, and have incredible photos of literally thousands of bats exiting the cave at dusk.

After Semuc we headed to Flores to see Tikal, the great Mayan temples. Very impressive especially the size of the things, but was not too impressed with our 3.30am tour to see the sun rise over the city. Basically didnt happen, but you cant win em all i guess. But having said that, the ruins were no doubt amazing, and Tikal is only one of many. Some of the temples rise to up to around 150m, and the steps are incredibly steep. You dont really walk them, you climb them. Several tourists have even died coming down these things. We even saw a guy there flat on his back after falling from only 8 steps up, enough to get a serious belting.

Tomorrow sees us once again on the bus to Belize for some Carribean snorkling at Caye Caulker. I have only heard amazing things of this place, and we have held off a lot of snorkling for this place, so really looking forward to that. Then we look towards my most anticipated country, Mexico for our last month. Mmmm, Mexican food. Might even have to do a cooking class i reckon to add to all the top recipes we have jotted down during our travels.

Take care all, especially Adrian and Nhi with there new little tacker.

1 comment:

Gill Morgan said...

Great to catch up with news - and great that you moved onto a safe place! Glen you got me worried - look after our girl for us - or else!
Faye sorry that we are missing your calls - looking forward to hearing about your next adventure and also seeing the photos - love M & D xxxx