We arrived in the very small city of Belize City to an undeniable Rastafarian influence. Everyone spoke English with a fantastic Jamaican accent and the hair was a frenzy of dreadlocks and corn rows. We hopped on a water taxi and sped out to the nearby island of Caye Caulker. The atmosphere here is so laid back. I was waiting for Glen under a tree with my 15kg backpack and a local walked by and said in a Jamaican accent "Lady...you in the shade". From anyone else this would sound prattish as you're just stating the obvious but in a rasta accent it sounds so damn cool. So I didn't mind being called sugar and people telling me they're "happy" because I undeniably LOVE a Jamaican accent!
The next day we headed out by yacht to the Sea Nature Reserve and immediatly we were swimming with 2m Nurse shaarks, sting rays and huge schnapper and Jacks plus plenty of other tropical marine life. The guide fed some of the rays so we got to pat them as well as the sharks who were like dogs wanting a cuddle. It just wasn't scary at all despite my fear of being the furthest person from the shore in case of a shark attack. We sailed to another spot called shark and ray alley where we swam with more sharks and rays of course, then sailed to one more spot where we were able to snorkel with the elusive Manatee which is about a 300kg animal thet looks like a fat seal with a dogs face. Definitely a once in a lifetime experience. It was curious of us and kept coming back for a nosey. We then set sail for home to the sound of reggae and with a few rum punches under the belt.
We then headed to Mexico at the coastal town of Tulum where the beach is white powder and the sea is turquoise. Despite it being a bit of an American tourist destination, the beach wasn't packed and the atmosphere was very chilled out. We discovered great Mexican food and to this day we have only eaten real mexican. We choose our restaurants by the quality of the chairs (the crapper, the better food). We have no hesitation in eating "street meat" now as our stomachs are hardened veterans. After Tulum we caught another tourist packed ruin (no more thanks) and caught some mammoth bus rides to our current destination of San Cristobel De Los Casas. It reminds us a little of Antigua, however warmer and more political with a heap of propaganda on the Mexican Zapasta (liberation Army). The hostel here is great and the food is lovely and we're well rested after 3 nights so tomorrow we head to Oaxaco then the coast for some more surf. Love to all!
Wednesday, June 27, 2007
Sunday, June 17, 2007
Giddy up in Guatemala
So since San Juan (the highlight being the market for food), where I scored some nice waves just up the road at Madera, we made our way up to Guatemala. Now I´m not one to be too fussed on some of the most average places, but Managua, the Nicaraguan capital, takes the cake. Without doubt the least safe we have felt in our 5 months so far. Let me see. in a few words; bribes, poverty, dodgy characters. Lets just say we caught a very dodge taxi, got out, got in a good taxi, straight to the bus terminal to book a lovely 2.30am ticket for the next morning after handing over a bribe just because he told us what time they opened in the morning. Headed for the closest hotel, price not being an option, slept for all of 5 hrs to walk to the station for 1.30am, then proceeded on the bus for 16hrs to Guatemala city. See, its not always what its cracked up to be, but still, we aint complaining!
On arrival to Guatemala City we were extermely impressed by how well developed it is in contrast to poor neighbouring El Salvador and Nicaragua. This was only reinforced on arrival to nice, altough tourist Antigua. But who gives a damn when you get to climb an active, smoking, bubbling volcano, Volcano Pacuya. We were quick to book a ride there just out of Antigua and on arrival to the top, about a 1 hr walk, we were just blown away by how incredible the site was. We actually walked up the set lava from a previous eruption and stood as close to actual flowing lava as you could without getting incinerated! Gotta love this place, can you imagine doing that in Aus if there were such a thing? Dont think so.
Antigua itself was a welcome relief from poorer Nicaragua and the bus ride, loads of great food and cool markets amonst cobbled streets. And although touristy, it definitely maintains its charm, and is quite a site as it is towered over by some 3 very large, one active, volcanoes. I also had myself an incredible mtb ride on the outskirts in thick jungle, epic stuff.
3 days later we headed to one of the most beautiful places yet, Semuc Champey. On arrival after 8 hrs bussing we were unfortunate not to be able to find a room at the place we wanted, but booked for the next 2 nights at the top notch El Retiro, a series of palm thatched neat little huts in the green mountains overlooking a pretty river. This was definitely one of the best lodges yet, all super friendly, cool people and a restaurant with food to die for. Especially the roast tomato and white bean soup, of which we even scored the recipe for.
So the day after arriving we headed out on a day tour of Semuc. Started with a nifty little caving experince, all submergeed in water, some of it even had to be swum complete with shoes and a candle in one hand. Very cool little exploration, going about 300m in to reach a cascade which flowed into the cave. Following this we cruised down the river on tubes, walked back up and mustered up the courage to jump off a 10m bridge into the river below, then proceeded to the magical pools of Semuc Champey itself. These pools are like nothing I have seen before, a series of turquoise and limestone crystal clear pools derrived from a powerful rapid which passes under an overhang upstream. So picturesque and peaceful to swim in, really did feel like another little world. Definitely a highlight of the last 5 months. We also visited the bat cave in Lanquin nearby, and have incredible photos of literally thousands of bats exiting the cave at dusk.
After Semuc we headed to Flores to see Tikal, the great Mayan temples. Very impressive especially the size of the things, but was not too impressed with our 3.30am tour to see the sun rise over the city. Basically didnt happen, but you cant win em all i guess. But having said that, the ruins were no doubt amazing, and Tikal is only one of many. Some of the temples rise to up to around 150m, and the steps are incredibly steep. You dont really walk them, you climb them. Several tourists have even died coming down these things. We even saw a guy there flat on his back after falling from only 8 steps up, enough to get a serious belting.
Tomorrow sees us once again on the bus to Belize for some Carribean snorkling at Caye Caulker. I have only heard amazing things of this place, and we have held off a lot of snorkling for this place, so really looking forward to that. Then we look towards my most anticipated country, Mexico for our last month. Mmmm, Mexican food. Might even have to do a cooking class i reckon to add to all the top recipes we have jotted down during our travels.
Take care all, especially Adrian and Nhi with there new little tacker.
On arrival to Guatemala City we were extermely impressed by how well developed it is in contrast to poor neighbouring El Salvador and Nicaragua. This was only reinforced on arrival to nice, altough tourist Antigua. But who gives a damn when you get to climb an active, smoking, bubbling volcano, Volcano Pacuya. We were quick to book a ride there just out of Antigua and on arrival to the top, about a 1 hr walk, we were just blown away by how incredible the site was. We actually walked up the set lava from a previous eruption and stood as close to actual flowing lava as you could without getting incinerated! Gotta love this place, can you imagine doing that in Aus if there were such a thing? Dont think so.
Antigua itself was a welcome relief from poorer Nicaragua and the bus ride, loads of great food and cool markets amonst cobbled streets. And although touristy, it definitely maintains its charm, and is quite a site as it is towered over by some 3 very large, one active, volcanoes. I also had myself an incredible mtb ride on the outskirts in thick jungle, epic stuff.
3 days later we headed to one of the most beautiful places yet, Semuc Champey. On arrival after 8 hrs bussing we were unfortunate not to be able to find a room at the place we wanted, but booked for the next 2 nights at the top notch El Retiro, a series of palm thatched neat little huts in the green mountains overlooking a pretty river. This was definitely one of the best lodges yet, all super friendly, cool people and a restaurant with food to die for. Especially the roast tomato and white bean soup, of which we even scored the recipe for.
So the day after arriving we headed out on a day tour of Semuc. Started with a nifty little caving experince, all submergeed in water, some of it even had to be swum complete with shoes and a candle in one hand. Very cool little exploration, going about 300m in to reach a cascade which flowed into the cave. Following this we cruised down the river on tubes, walked back up and mustered up the courage to jump off a 10m bridge into the river below, then proceeded to the magical pools of Semuc Champey itself. These pools are like nothing I have seen before, a series of turquoise and limestone crystal clear pools derrived from a powerful rapid which passes under an overhang upstream. So picturesque and peaceful to swim in, really did feel like another little world. Definitely a highlight of the last 5 months. We also visited the bat cave in Lanquin nearby, and have incredible photos of literally thousands of bats exiting the cave at dusk.
After Semuc we headed to Flores to see Tikal, the great Mayan temples. Very impressive especially the size of the things, but was not too impressed with our 3.30am tour to see the sun rise over the city. Basically didnt happen, but you cant win em all i guess. But having said that, the ruins were no doubt amazing, and Tikal is only one of many. Some of the temples rise to up to around 150m, and the steps are incredibly steep. You dont really walk them, you climb them. Several tourists have even died coming down these things. We even saw a guy there flat on his back after falling from only 8 steps up, enough to get a serious belting.
Tomorrow sees us once again on the bus to Belize for some Carribean snorkling at Caye Caulker. I have only heard amazing things of this place, and we have held off a lot of snorkling for this place, so really looking forward to that. Then we look towards my most anticipated country, Mexico for our last month. Mmmm, Mexican food. Might even have to do a cooking class i reckon to add to all the top recipes we have jotted down during our travels.
Take care all, especially Adrian and Nhi with there new little tacker.
Thursday, June 7, 2007
Costa Rica Baby
After visiting the Panama Canal we headed to the seaside town of Santa Catalina with our mates Kate and Crum. The boys had good intentions to surf but a little down time got the better of them. Next we did a mammoth road trip over 2 days to Costa Ricas capital San Jose. We stuffed up the exchange rate for the first couple of hours so can definitely vouch for the fact that Costa Rica is $$$!
After one night of sushi, wine and cable TV we headed to the Pacific Coast town of Montazuma (or Montafumar due to some good conditions for growing and smoking pot). We trekked to a waterfall, got scared out of the jungle by a load roar which later turned out to be howler monkeys, explored the jungle meets beach and paid a visit to Santa Teresa 1 hr away where Glen had an uneventful surf and I lazed on the beach and watched monkeys play in the trees. It was a great 3 days but off we went again...
We caught our bus-ferry-bus to our next stop of Montaverde which is in the hills of Costa Rica. We walked 3 hours of trails in Cloud Forest in search of animals but with our lack of guide all we found was 100's of beautiful hummingbirds at the artificial feeders. It was a lovely forest though and I'm sure you've seen that great photo of the elusive "white whale" found in the jungle.
Next we headed to Volcan Arenal via van-boat-van. We signed up for an amazing 7hr tour with the local philosopher Noel. We took a 90min walk through jungle where we saw Toucans, the ass end of a sloth, howler monkeys, spiders and apparently the eyelash of a snake??? Yeah I dont get it either. After that we headed to the volcano at dusk to see rocks and lava spewing (well tumbling) out with a fantastic glow. Great for photos...however we had a battery incident so we headed to the nearby hot springs/spa centre for some much needed destressing.
We are now in Nicaragua (after a 5am bus) on the Pacific coast in San Juan del Sur. We hope to head to a beach camp tomorrow then Ometepe then speed through Honduras to Guatamala and Belize. Best wishes to Nhi and Adrian who are hopefully now proud parents. Glen thinks Adju (Adrian Jnr) is a great name!
After one night of sushi, wine and cable TV we headed to the Pacific Coast town of Montazuma (or Montafumar due to some good conditions for growing and smoking pot). We trekked to a waterfall, got scared out of the jungle by a load roar which later turned out to be howler monkeys, explored the jungle meets beach and paid a visit to Santa Teresa 1 hr away where Glen had an uneventful surf and I lazed on the beach and watched monkeys play in the trees. It was a great 3 days but off we went again...
We caught our bus-ferry-bus to our next stop of Montaverde which is in the hills of Costa Rica. We walked 3 hours of trails in Cloud Forest in search of animals but with our lack of guide all we found was 100's of beautiful hummingbirds at the artificial feeders. It was a lovely forest though and I'm sure you've seen that great photo of the elusive "white whale" found in the jungle.
Next we headed to Volcan Arenal via van-boat-van. We signed up for an amazing 7hr tour with the local philosopher Noel. We took a 90min walk through jungle where we saw Toucans, the ass end of a sloth, howler monkeys, spiders and apparently the eyelash of a snake??? Yeah I dont get it either. After that we headed to the volcano at dusk to see rocks and lava spewing (well tumbling) out with a fantastic glow. Great for photos...however we had a battery incident so we headed to the nearby hot springs/spa centre for some much needed destressing.
We are now in Nicaragua (after a 5am bus) on the Pacific coast in San Juan del Sur. We hope to head to a beach camp tomorrow then Ometepe then speed through Honduras to Guatamala and Belize. Best wishes to Nhi and Adrian who are hopefully now proud parents. Glen thinks Adju (Adrian Jnr) is a great name!
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